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- Photography using Digital SLRs

Digital Camera Experiments #002

 

A 21st Century Daguerreotype – from a Digital Positive

essay by Brad Hinkel (6/13/2005)

 
 

The 21st Century Daguerreotype

Have you every wanted to hit your emulsion with a hammer? Would you like to use a blow torch as the archival wash? Do you believe in alchemy? If you don’t like a print, wouldn’t you like to take a sander to it and start over again? If so, you might consider daguerreotypes. Humor aside, I believe that the Daguerreotype is certainly the most unique and one of the most elegant photographic processes available today.

Last summer, I joined ten other students in a workshop on making daguerreotypes taught by one of the leading contemporary daguerreotypist; Jerry Spagnoli. Jerry has a thoroughly modern approach to using the daguerreotype as an expressive medium for his art work. He works to make daguerreotypes that are more than photographic images, but are beautiful art object themselves; he has perfected several processes for creating rich tones and colors in his daguerreotypes; his work from the streets of New York are wonderfully three dimensional and include vibrant, blue skies, and he was able to leverage the incredible sharpness available in daguerreotype for stunning details in his Anatomical series.


Image 1: Jerry Spagnoli demonstrating the Construction of a Daguerreotype Case

A daguerreotype is essentially an image created from particles of reduced silver and iodine over a mirrored surface. The mirror helps created an incredible illusion of depth and the surface particles create a grain-free image of almost infinite sharpness. Gilding can produce a rich range of colors especially in bright highlights and blown out highlights.

The daguerreotype (like many alternative processes) is shrouded by contemporary mythology and mere misinformation. Overall, the process is no more difficult than printing in the traditional wet darkroom, but this process is so different from other techniques with which photographers are familiar that it is almost impossible to compare. Much of the work for this workshop was done outside in the sun, and the plates only get wet during the final clearing and finishing stage. Following Jerry’s instruction, we were able to make passable daguerreotypes during the first day of the workshop, and many good one by the end of the workshop.

In this workshop, we learned the Becquerel method of development for Daguerreotypes, a process that is slightly simpler than the traditional method and does not involve development using mercury.


Image 2: Buffing the Daguerreotype Plates

The daguerreotype process begins with a plate of copper that has been plated with silver – there are a number of companies that can silver plate for daguerreotypes – we got our plates directly from Jerry. These plates must then be buffed to a mirror smoothness (and smoother still) – this is performed using a ½HP jeweler’s buff – the plates are first mounted onto a 1 ½ wooded block (using 5/8ths inch penny nails) to stabilize – a propane torch is used to heat the plate and remove any moisture and the plate is buffed aggressively on the jeweler’s buff to create a very smooth mirror finish.
Following the machine buff, we took the plates indoors to continue buffing by hand on velveteen. The final plate is an extremely smooth mirrored surface.


Image 3: The Sensitizing Box (used inside a ventilation hood)

The next key step is to sensitize the plate. This takes place in a darkened room with a ventilation hood and safelights. The plate is exposed to room temperature iodine vapors for about 50seconds to create a sensitized emulsion. (Warning – Iodine is a potentially very dangerous substance – you should not attempt to handle it without instruction from someone who is experience with using it). The plate is placed in a custom designed iodine exposure unit to prevent the release of the iodine vapors. We periodically removed the plates to evaluate the sensitization visually – the plates would change color from a warm orange, through magenta, and finally to a steely blue.

We then placed the sensitized plates into glass plate holders (or traditional 4x5 film holders) so we could use them with our view cameras for exposure.



Image 4: Shooting Still Subjects

The exposure process is very similar to shooting any photographic material using a view camera – except that these Daguerreotype plates have an ISO much less than 1 (the Becquerel Daguerreotypes used in the course have an ISO around .0002; traditional mercury Daguerreotypes are significantly faster, around .01). This requires exposures of around 3 minutes at f3.5 in open shade on a sunny day. (Open shade is preferred to full sun, as the Daguerreotypes have an exposure latitude around 3 stops). Exposures in the range of 3-10 minutes were fine for most of the students in this course who were used to shooting a view camera; but portraits were more challenging for the sitters. A number of successful portraits were made during this course.


Image 5: Portraits

We returned with the exposed plates to the darkroom and removed them from the film holders. These were then placed under a sheet of amberlith for development. The Becquerel Daguerreotypes were develop by place each in full sun, but under a sheet of amberlith for 1½ hours. This is one of the best (and worst) aspects of this process; it is great to be able to ‘develop’ the images out in the full sun, but the waiting could be tedious. The prints did start to print-out and become visible within 10-15 minutes of being exposed to the sun, but full development takes the full 90 minutes. It is possible to develop with various types of Halogen heat lamps, but the sun is still the brightest light source around.


Image 6: Developing the Daguerreotypes in Full Sun

Once the plates are developed, the image is fully formed, and the image can now be evaluated. If you don’t like the image at this stage, simple take a damp paper towel, wipe it off, and go back to the buffing stage to start over.


Image 7: Jerry teaching the Gilding Process

If the image is acceptable, the plates only need to be cleared, washed and gilded. The plates are clear in traditional fix (Sodium Thiosulfate), washed in distilled water, and gilded with a solution of gold chloride and a blow-torch. For gilding, the developed plates are place on a gilding stand to allow access to the bottom of the plate, enough gold chloride is placed over the top of the plate to cover the plate (surface tension keeps the solution on top of the plate) and then the plate is carefully heated with a propane blow-torch for about 2 minutes. This step does seem to require the touch of a master, gilding too little produce little additional color, gilding too much produces a gold plated images. Yet a properly gilding plate is wonderful; blue and magenta tones appear in the highlights, and a slight gold plate adds an overall sophistication to the image.
The process from buffing, through sensitizing, exposure, development, and gilding took most students around 3 hours to complete for each print; but half of that time was spent waiting for the prints to develop. Eventually, many students were preparing and exposing one plate while a previous plate developed in the sun. Everyone took home some beautiful plates from this workshop.

The Daguerreotype is not merely a historical oddity – the images produced onto a Daguerreotype are among the most compelling and interesting of all photographic processes – and the uniqueness of this process makes it a very important expressive tool for contemporary photographers. If you are interested in new options for photographic expression; this is definitely an alternative process worth investigating.

We need to remember the value of alternative techniques for printing photographic images; these provide rich and expressive opportunities for presenting our vision. The Daguerreotype is one of the most compelling of these options.

This article is not intended as an instruction guide for making Daguerreotypes – this is not a process that I would recommend learning through reading a magazine article – but I hope it provides some education about the contemporary daguerreotype and interests at least a few of you to try out a workshop on this process. Jerry Spagnoli teaches several workshops per year (I hope he will return to the Photographic Center Northwest in Seattle, plus he also teaches at several other schools including the Photographer’s Formulary in Montana). You can see a selection of contemporary Daguerreotypes at www.newdags.com.

I would like to thank Jerry Spagnoli for teaching this course and for his inspiration as a photographic artist. Laurel Schultz who helped assemble the Daguerreotype lab for this workshop, and who is keeping Daguerreotypes alive in Seattle. And the Photographic Center Northwest for hosting this workshop.


A Postscript in Digital Daguerreotypes

I just had to try out making Daguerreotypes from digital ‘positives’. On the first day, I was successful in creating what may be the first digital Daguerreotype. I started with a good grayscale image in Photoshop, and printed out positives into Pictorico White Film (the material that I use from most of my digital negatives). Calibration turned out to be extremely easy; ultimately, I just flattened out each image before printing by removing 50 points of Contrast (using Brightness/Contrast!). The printed positives were placed face down over a sensitized Daguerreotype plate in the darkroom, and placed into a contact frame. I exposed the prints for 60sec under my UV exposure unit. Otherwise the Daguerreotype process was identical to the process described above.



Image 8: My First Digital Daguerreotype (from a 4x5 original)


Image 9: Valley of Fire (from a 4x5 original)


Image 10: Redwing Blackbird (original from a digital camera)

 


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